Saturday 10th October Destination day
Beautiful sunshine as my co-pilot (Heather) and myself drove from Bristol to Highgreen Northumberland. The general driving theme of the day were 50mile zones due to ‘men at work’, however we saw non, men that is, but there was a sign saying, “CONCRETE SETTING”. I could not help thinking how long this fore mentioned concrete had actually been left to dry, days, hours, weeks, months even?
Favourite names as we entered Northumberland were, ‘River Ribble’ (think Rowan Atkinson when saying it), ‘Once Brewed’ and ‘Hadrian’s Business Park’ (I’m sure the ancient Roman emperor Hadrian will be delighted!)
Arrived at my destination in the dark after 344 miles, 8.5 hours and four pit stops completely exhausted. My new home is the ‘Dovecote’ on the grounds of Highgreen Manor, literally next door and is a converted stable.
The front entrance has a tree lined drive, as of course all good manor houses do. Decided on the first night armed with torches to take a walk up the lane, stumbled across a ‘cabinet of curiosities’ and encountered the first neighbours Barry and Dorothy whom were very friendly.
11th October – Friday 16th October
Naturally the first week was devoted to unpacking; sorting, cleaning and making me feel at home and getting my studio sorted. And to orientate myself with the aid of a co-pilot, some will know my lack of directional skills.
However we also managed to pack in rather a lot, here are some highlights!
The nearest supermarket is a mere 27miles away (Hexham) and the nearest shop is 8 miles away (Bellingham).
Hexham, an incredibly picturesque town with an amazing Abby built originally as a Benedictine monastery in 674-8 by Wilfred bishop of York, well I’m sure Wilfred didn’t lift a brick but under his jurisdiction the layers of spirituality and history began; he was also the first native Saxon to become a bishop.
It is a complete treasure trove, with crypts, Saxon carvings, Roman carvings, 15th Century wood panel paintings, and an amazing stone staircase that is so beautifully worn, it is a testimony to generations of its use.Errrrr….. I digress, Hexham also has a fabulous Tesco’s and when I am feeling indulgent there is also a Waitrose.
Bellingham, went for walk to Hareshaw Linn through a wooded gorge that leads to a beautiful waterfall with a natural rock amphitheatre. Excellent path laid by locals at the turn of the century. I nearly gave up as tired, but spurred on by co-pilot Heather. Came across a fantastic wiggly bridge then a sawn off trunk of tree with old coins pushed into the surface….for luck?….for trolls?
With incredible gloomy skies drove to Housestead a Roman fort along a magnificent surviving part of Hadrian’s Wall. Arrived late so got in for free, seemed to be the only people there and spent hours basking in history.
Walking down from the ‘Wall’ I spotted a sheep in distance on its back with its legs in the air, being a fully-fledged city girl I thought it was having a ‘Baloo’ the bear moment (you know…..from The Jungle Book), scratching its back, but minus the palm tree and singing. However, it was hastily pointed out that this upside down sheep was actually in distress and as the nearest farmer was…..errrrr……miles away and even possibly non-existent, we were going to have to do something about it.
Being some distance from said sheep I insisted we had a hug before commencing sheep saving and also took a moment (just a briefest moment mind) to stop, and yes, I admit it, to take a photo of aforementioned distressed sheep. I briefly wondered how people like Cartier-Bresson felt when taking upsetting photos and then remembered the task in hand.
So one distressed sheep, eyes a bulging, legs a flaying, and two girls not exactly familiar with the complexities of sheep manoeuvring approached sheep. Unsure whether it would bite us, or kick us in the face we did not know what to grab. Remember that legs are thrashing madly and eyes are bulging, its not only distressed now it’s also scarred that two confused humans are standing over it. We (forgive the pun)….. sheepishly tried to roll it over but to no avail. Cool co-pilot Heather panics and suggests we find someone to help, knowing that the nearest building is miles away I’m determined to rescue sheep and insist we try again. With some nifty foot and hand work from both of us we finally manage to roll sheep to what I now know as its normal position of up right, legs down and not up in the air!
Drove towards Rothbury and came across incredible 11th Century Church and a castle ruin, which seemed so incongruent with the noisy sky that had 21st century army planes zooming above.
Otterburn (about 6 miles from Highgreen) has an army base. And just in case people are unaware of the dangers of military weapons there are handy signs dotted around to help
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Went to the seaside (44 miles) on a bitterly cold day and ate kippers in Craster from the famous kipper place that Rick Stein loves (L. Robson & Sons Ltd). They are truly the most fantastic kippers I have ever eaten. Walked along St. Oswald’s Way next to the coastline to the dramatic ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle,
So a jam packed few days ending with one of my favourite moments this week: Scenario: Standing outside at night, a billion stars overhead, your best mate standing next to you, ciggy in one hand, champagne in other and two shooting stars, Heather turns round to me and says………“It’s a tough life”.
First week – DONE!

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